Haida Gwaii is a place like no other. The land, the water, the wildlife, the people, the plants and the history are all unique to this archipelago located about 100 kilometres off the coast of Northern B.C. — also known as the Queen Charlotte Islands. Haida Gwaii consists of more than 150 islands but most of the population of 5,000 live on two of the largest, Graham and Moresby in the communities of Old Massett, Massett, Port Clements, Skidegate and Queen Charlotte City.

The landscape of Haida Gwaii is varied and spectacular. From the rugged 1,000-metre peaks of the San Christoval Mountains in the south to lush forests dotted with lakes, ancient rainforest, sprawling beaches and grasslands throughout the rest of the Islands.

Made of material as old as 250 million years, Haida Gwaii is home to some of the strongest winds in Canada with waves as high as 35 metres and four metres of rainfall each year. Another unique aspect of the landscape is the tides on Haida Gwaii — which can fluctuate up to 24 feet from morning to night, with the highest and lowest tides happening around the time of a new or full moon. The tides expose an amazing intertidal world made up of kelp forests, eelgrass meadows and the threatened Northern abalone — a marine snail. Hundreds of marine species have been identified around the Islands. In one survey, starfish were counted at a density of 74 per square metre. In contrast, near Vancouver Island the typical density is seven starfish per square metre.

The history is as diverse as the landscape. Haida, translated to English means "The People." The Haida have a long history on the islands, dating back about 11,000 years. The Haida Nation is divided into two lineages, Raven and Eagles, which are then subdivided into numerous smaller and more localized clans. At one time, the Haida population on the Islands flourished. At the time of the first contact with Europeans, recorded by Juan Perez in 1774, the Haida population numbered more than 7,000. Through a series of epidemics such as influenza, tuberculosis and small pox, the First Nations' population plummeted 90 to 95 per cent. One village, Tanu, went from between 400 and 500 residents down to about 40 during this time. To date, more than 500 village sites have been discovered. Scattered across the Islands they are a testimony to the great tribes that once flourished and lived amongst the land.

In danger of being lost forever, Haida Elders have stepped up to protect their language. Previously, the Haida had no written language as history was passed to each generation orally. Starting in 1998, elders in the Skidegate Haida Language Program have been working to preserve this part of their history. Currently, the Haida language is being taught in schools on Haida Gwaii, from daycare through to high school.

The Haida Heritage Centre is as spectacular inside as it is outside, placing the Haida past, present and future on display. The cedar 53,000 square foot complex is made of five timber longhouses and features exhibition space, a museum, teaching centre and a carving shed.

The First Nations are no longer the only ones who call Haida Gwaii home. Heron Wier and Laura Pattison own Moresby Explorers. Both grew up on Haida Gwaii and left for a time but have returned. Weir grew up in Rose Harbour, about 15 nautical miles from the southern tip of the Islands.

"The draw of the islands is different for everyone," Weir said. "Some people are interested in Haida history, some want to see wildlife, some want to see truly wild places, moss-covered forests or have an exciting boat ride. I never get tired of viewing the wildlife, especially whales and dolphins. I love the ocean and boats, history, fresh fish, venison... "

For Pattison, absence made her heart grow fonder after she left Haida Gwaii to travel in South America and attend university.

"After spending some time away I began to appreciate the islands more and more and gradually I realized that I'd be quite happy making my permanent home here," Pattison said. "Going away for a bit gives you a greater appreciation of home when you come back and having a good solid home like the islands gives you a foundation for appreciating the rest of the world."

With Moresby Explorers, Pattison said she has witnessed many events most people only see on TV.

"Being out on the water all the time you get to see some really neat things that you could never have planned in advance. You just have to be in the right place at the right time," she said. "One of my favourite moments was when I was coming home alone late in the evening, after dropping off a kayak group, and came across seven fin whales hanging out on the surface of the water. It looked like they were sleeping, just drifting up every now and again for a breath of air. Some years we don't see fin whales in the area at all and usually they aren't in groups, so it was amazing to see them all together like that."

Twenty-eight-year-old Ryan Barber has worked for Moresby Explorers for the last two summers, starting as a cook but now working as a guide. Previously a software developer, Barber came to Haida Gwaii after deciding a lifestyle change was necessary.

"The natural setting here just seems larger than life, but not too different from the south [B.C.] coast," Barber said. "What makes things interesting is that people live a lifestyle which I could only aspire to in the south."

Gerry Whittle relocated to the Islands from Cape Breton in 1973. Gerry works as a logger and said he enjoys the fishing opportunities and the lifestyle living on Haida Gwaii affords him. At one point, Gerry said he has in the past gone long stretches without leaving the cozy confines of the Islands.

"I think I went two years one time without leaving [Haida Gwaii]," he said.

Gerry's wife Pam moved to Haida Gwaii in 1981 from B.C.'s Cariboo-Chilcotin region with friends to work as their nanny and 28 years later is still there.

"I like the people, the landscape, the ocean and the way of life," she said, adding the couple try to get off the Islands at least twice a year. "You're always glad to get back because it's a rat race out there."

Regardless of background, the common thread between the residents of Haida Gwaii is their appreciation and love for the wildlife around them. Within only a few kilometres of the islands, the ocean floor drops from about 100 metres to more than 1,000, providing an upwelling of currents that are rich in marine life. It is this marine life that brings 20 species of whales, dolphins and porpoises to Haida Gwaii. Humpbacks, minkes and grey whales are the most commonly spotted but killer, sperm, Baird's beaked, fin, blue, sei and North Pacific right whales can also be seen. According to Haida culture, killer whales are closely linked to the spiritual world as it is believed that when people drown in the waters of Haida Gwaii, they become killer whales.

About 1.5 million seabirds breed on Haida Gwaii each year. On the North end of Haida Gwaii, near Massett, is the Delkatla Nature Sanctuary. This sanctuary is an important stopping point for migratory birds along the pacific flyway and is utilized by sandhill cranes, bald eagles, Canada geese, trumpeter swans and a distinct subspecies of great blue herons, among many others. While it can be found in the sanctuary, the great blue heron does not migrate. It is a solitary nester and has different features and colours than other blue herons.

Sea lions and seals are also plentiful on Haida Gwaii. More than 600 breeding Stellar sea lions use the Cape St. James breeding colony. Weighing as much as 800 kilograms, males arrive early each May to compete for breeding territory.

The wildlife on land is just as plentiful. Scientists say small sections of the islands were not covered by ice during the last glaciation period. Because of this, six of the 10 land

mammals which are found on Haida Gwaii are their own distinct subspecies. The black bears found on Haida Gwaii are among the largest in the world and the sitka black-tailed deer are significantly smaller than deer found on the mainland.

The jewel in the crown of Haida Gwaii is Gwaii Haanas National Park. The park is relatively new, having been created in 1988 after the Haida people led an effort to stop logging in the area, aiming to protect the natural, cultural and spiritual values of the land. The creation of the park began in 1985, when a standoff between the logging industry and the Haida people on Lyell Island erupted and drew international attention. The park is managed by the Archipelago Management Board, which has members from the Council of the Haida Nation and the Canadian Government. Although claims to the lands of Gwaii Haanas are unresolved, both sides agree it is imperative to protect the area.

Access to the park can only be gained by boat or by floatplane and guidelines for visitors to Gwaii Haanas are strict. Visitors must first undergo an orientation done by Parks Canada and only 12 people are allowed to be within sight and sound of each other at all times. While on land, guests are required to stay on the clearly marked trails and watch where they step.

"Artifacts are literally right below the surface on Gwaii Haanas," said Natalie Fournier from Parks Canada.

A handful of companies offer boat, kayak and canoe tours around the

At the south end of Gwaii Haanas is SGang Gwaay Llnagaay (Wailing Island Town) National Historic Site. In 1981, SGang Gwaay was declared a National Historic Site and a United Nations Education and Science Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Site. This site represents the only example in the world of the remains of a traditional Northwest Coast First Nations village site, complete with standing poles and the remains of massive cedar longhouses. The youngest poles found at SGang Gwaay, mostly mortuary poles, are about 175 years old. The remaining standing poles were straightened about 15 years ago, but it has since been decided that once the poles fall to allow them to return to the earth.

It's no wonder the people living on Haida Gwaii take the conservation of this unique place personally. One of the ways they are able to protect the treasures of the Islands is The Haida Gwaii Watchmen. The Program started informally in the 1970s after looting was noted at some of the old village sites. In 1981, the program began officially, working closely with Parks Canada. From May to September each year, between two and four Watchmen live at each of the five selected sites within and near Gwaii Haanas.

Parks Canada is currently working toward protecting the plentiful marine environment surrounding Gwaii Haanas, proposing the establishment of the Gwaii Haanas National Marine Conservation Area Reserve which would cover an area of about 3,400 square kilometres.

Others working toward a common goal include the Gwaii Trust Society, who work to "... enhance environmentally sustainable social and economic benefits to Haida Gwaii." It is essentially an endowment fund that looks after the Islands.

"We face a lot of the same challenges they do in other areas — the economic situation has been tough," said executive director Errol Winter. 　"But these challenges have provided opportunities as well of creating businesses through looking at new ways of utilizing the resources. What we want to do is try to find a way to support that in the community without creating the handout mentality,"

The society was formed in 1994 and is governed by a board made up of four Haida Nation representatives and four non-Haida members.

"Those representatives want to bring forth the ideas of sustainability for each one of their areas. We all know that the industries that have been supported previously are not going to be the same and if they are, they will be done much differently," Winter said. "Tree farm licensing that was done in the past by large corporations will probably now be community forests that will be Haida-based and we're looking at wind-energy technology that will be a shared resource."

Looking ahead, continued cooperation will be essential in ensuring Haida Gwaii remains a place of untouched beauty, culture and history.

But that's not news to the people that live on the Islands.