There are many places throughout Canada that have gone to great lengths to preserve this countries rich history and diverse culture by restoring or rebuilding heritage sites and structures. However there are very few places left where the colourful history still lays raw, real and untouched for the most part.
Telegraph Creek, located in the far northwest corner of BC is one of those incredible treasures.
Whether you are a history buff or not, there is something almost magical about Telegraph Creek as you walk around the remnants of the Klondike Gold Rush years by the river.There is an upper and lower area to Telegraph Creek with most of the 400 residents, who are mostly Tahltan First Nations, residing in the newer, upper level. Both are two different worlds. Up top, it seems to be a normal little village with a general store, post office, school, RCMP station, community hall, church, medical clinic and several homes of varying types and sizes.
However, as one makes their way down the steep and terraced gorge to the lower village, an entirely different world awaits. The remains of what was once a prosperous settlement in the late 1800's unfolds with ancient structures, houses and out buildings.
Many buildings are falling down or shells of what they once were and are perched on the steep banks leading down to the water. Backed by the rocky and volcanic desert like cliffs, the scenery is unlike anything anywhere else in Canada.
There are a score of restored buildings such as the original Hudson's Bay Company store which is now a lodge, store and cafe and several homes are still lived in. Yet, even the structures that have been preserved don't have a polished and new look and seem to still speak volumes of history. The houses along the Stikine river are all unique and they too seem to have stories to tell.
There is one particular building that is covered in biblical signs and symbols and even has a strange looking ancient truck perched on a decaying raised board parking area that looks like it could tumble to the depths below any day.
If the walls could talk, you would most likely hear amazing tales from over the past 150 years. During the Yukon Gold Rush, Telegraph Creek saw the discovery of gold on the Stikine River in the early 1860's. In 1866 the assembly of a telegraph line to the Yukon began, giving the area the name it carries to this day. With the Gold Rush in full swing and the exciting new development of the telegraph line came the arrival of the paddlewheelers and Telegraph Creek soon became the head of navigation for the area. Boatloads of supplies and prospectors looking for gold in the Klondike unloaded on the banks creating an even bigger bustle in the once thriving community. The cable line was finally completed 35 years later in 1901and abandoned in 1936 after the arrival of the wireless radio. While the original Telegraph trail to the Yukon is mainly overgrown, a 265 Kilometre stretch is still accessible between the Village and Atlin BC and for those who are the adventurous types, it is open to backpacking.
In fact, there are many great things to do in the area besides exploring the historic old sites. River boating or paddling the Stikine River offers everything from day trips beneath the steep canyon walls to Glenora, another former Gold Rush settlement, or even a tour through the Grand Canyon of the Stikine or the confluence of the Chutine River and Jackson's Landing. Full day trips can land explores in the heart of the Coast mountains where there is an abundance of wildlife, braided river channels and breath taking glaciers. Even longer excursions will take people to Lower River, Wrangell or Petersburg Alaska. In addition to spectacular river adventures Telegraph Creek is close to Mount Edziza Provincial Park, Great Glacier Provincial Park, Choquette Hot Springs Provincial Park and the Stikine River Provincial Park and the Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Park which is the second largest park in BC at more than 650,000 hectares.
With such diverse and beautiful scenery, Telegraph Creek and it's immense surroundings offer great opportunities for not only riverboating and hiking but also hunting and fishing. A few miles downriver, there is a trio of Forest Service Recreation Sites along the Stikine, Glenora, Winter Creek and Dodjatin Creek that offer more than 40 vehicle campsites along the riverbanks.
However, getting to this remote area is an adventure all on it's own. Highway 37 to Dease Lake is a normal, scenic northern paved road. Once in Dease Lake, one must turn off the main highway and head southwest on a very remote forest service road. Travellers would be well advised to have a full tank of gas, at least one spare tire and food and water. While it is technically only 96 kilometres, it takes at least a few hours for the normal driver. After approximately an hour along normal back country roads, the adventure takes a new turn and starts following steep cavernous corridors. As one comes down into the Tahltan reserve at the confluence of the Tahltan and Stikine River, passengers might find themselves desperately gripping the holly crap handles as the dirt road careens down extremely steep hills full of tight switchbacks. Once at the bottom of the canyon, allow some time to take in the unique little reserve with it's steep volcanic banks and intriguing rock walls as a few minutes later the road starts to climb up the other side in a similar fashion. The narrow road carries on in this fashion for the next 55 minutes to Telegraph Creek. Although the road is unlike anything most people have ever traveled on and can be quite nerve racking for some, the reward is surreal views down the gorges, intense desert landscapes with beautiful colours, wildlife of all shapes and sizes and great pullouts for picnics and photos that will amaze most.
From start to finish, a trip back in time to the world of Telegraph Creek is well worth any travellers or adventurers time and almost a must see and do for Canadians who like to explore all the amazing things this great country has to offer.
